June 14: Mirror Harbor
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Jane and Ian
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Log Entry: Monday, June 14th, 1999

Waterfall Cove (Khaz Bay) to Mirror Harbor: 25.3 nm

Waterfall_Cove_to_Mirror_Harbor.jpg (70439 bytes) Mirror_Harbor.jpg (62517 bytes) click on an image to see details
(Chart: route)

(Chart: anchorage)

Trolled for about an hour shortly after leaving Waterfall Cove: no luck.

Autopilot now works beautifully!

A brief one-hour venture out into "the open": quite a bit gentler than the previous day … Mirror Harbor, Ian at 4 am.jpg (10430 bytes)
Mirror Harbor.jpg (9169 bytes) This is why it's called Mirror Harbor ...

Mirror Harbor: a challenging entry. It wasn’t until later, at low tide, that we realized how truly challenging it had been!

How do we avoid nasty accidents?

Our first-level source of information for getting around is the charts.  However, for coastal navigation, the charts are not enough.   To get into, out of, and through the tricky spots, you need more.  For Alaska, we have:

United States Coast Pilot, Pacific Coast Alaska: Dixon Entrance to Cape Spencer, Vol. 8;
"Exploring the Inside Passage to Alaska", by Don Douglass and Reanne Hemingway-Douglass;
"Northwest Boat Travel";
A slew of tide and current tables.

Additionally, for places like Glacier Bay, we have guides and books specific to that particular location.  Each (except for the tide tables) is a compendium of anchorage and harbour descriptions, historical notes, and approach instructions.  Each has information not included in the others; each has it's own perspective on what's worth doing or seeing, what's not; what's dangerous, what's challenging, what's important.  The Douglass' book is my favourite, as it includes diagrams, good historical background, and is well-written and well put together. 

Mirror Harbor, skunk cabbage.jpg (25097 bytes)
Skunk cabbage on way to hot springs

A one-mile hike to the hot springs: Don and Renee were right: it is worth the anxious ride into Mirror Harbor: a well-maintained hut, with a natural granite tub, water very hot but not too hot. It was the very first hot springs I have ever truly enjoyed. We had remembered to bring a draft Guinness (can with new, improved widget), and we enjoyed it at the spring. There were two men there, from Buffalo, on a kayaking trip, and we talked briefly before walking the mile back to the dinghy, which was now beached like Noah’s Ark with the receding tide.

When we got back, we (Jane) did some calculations, and determined that we had to leave the following morning no later than 4:15, or else wait until about 2:30 p.m. We opted for the early departure, and prepared everything before going to bed, so all we had to do was get up and go.

Jane's log:

"There was a young deer onshore [at Waterfall Cove] as we picked up the prawn trap (both prawn and crab traps were empty!)

"As we came up Slocum Arm we spotted a sea otter taking the current downstream - he was just floating down, not a care in the world.  I think of all the wildlife to date I have found the sea otter the most fascinating.

"Trolled for halibut in Smooth Channel - no luck.  Spotted a whole extended family of sea otters basking in the sun as we came through Ogden Passage.

"We spotted at least three gray whales diving around us as we entered Mirror Harbour at Snag Island.

"What a great spot - even Ian enjoyed the hot springs and the sun came out.

"At low tide the dog leg ride past the drying rocks looks pretty narrow!"

 

June 13: Khaz Bay ] [ June 14: Mirror Harbor ] June 15: Inian Cove ] June 16: Bartlett Cove ] June 17: Blue Mouse Cove ] June 18: Russell Island ] June 19: Reid Inlet ] June 20: Reid Inlet ] June 21: Shag Cove ] June 22: Swanson Harbor ] June 23: Haines ] June 24: Skagway ] June 25: Skagway ] June 26: Skagway ] June 27: Echo Cove ] June 28: Auke Bay ] June 29: Auke Bay ] June 30: Auke Bay ] July 1: Auke Bay ]